Thursday 27 February 2014

Wet Wednesday in February

Wednesday : Slept in until 7.30 , well after first light . The weather is more Killin than Khajuraho, grey clouds with no hint of sun.The hotel breakfast is pretty good and sets us up for a hard day's tourism. We stride out towards the main (Western) temple complex and buy our tickets plus an audio guide.

The Khajuraho temples date back over seven hundred years and some are over a thousand years old but they are still in remarkably good condition. The Archaeological Survey of India doesn't always get it right but here they seem to do a decent job. The grounds in which the temples are situated are well tended and the signage is pretty good. There are plenty of other visitors,  both Westerners and Indian, but there seems to be enough space for all. It is difficult to describe what we see so there are extra photos today.

The detailed carvings are very energetic, conveying life and movement.  The erotic carvings are the famous ones but there are plenty depicting scenes from everyday life.  D is disappointed by the lack of trains and has to settle for elephants.

 On and off there are a few spots of rain and at one point we even don the rain jackets.   By 1.30 we are pretty much templed out and go for a light lunch at the Raja Cafe which claims to be a Swiss restaurant.  Switzerland must have got a lot grubbier since D's visit in July last year. Black tea and grilled cheese sandwiches but no cornichons. After lunch we walk through a light drizzle to the Adivart Tribal and Folk Art Museum. Just as we arrive there are peals of thunder and once inside the rain starts hammering on the roof.

This is a small but interesting museum and we are shown around by a well informed young man whose status appears to be official. R takes a fancy to some of the lampholders that are a bit like mobiles in a metal frame. There is interesting pottery, similar in style to the Bankura horses but with some distinct differences. The colourful tribal wall paintings are also very striking as is the wall coated in cow dung and then decorated in the tribal style.  The musical instrument section includes a pair of wooden pipes that are played by holding at one end and whirling them round and round. D gets a shot at it and R says that it is the most melodious noise he has made since she met him.  Once again worth every penny. At the end we add our comments in the book and slip our guide a pour-boire.
The rain has not yet eased up and we contemplate doing a second circuit of the museum but instead sit in the entrance shelter and write up some blog. There is a let up in the rain after about twenty minutes and we walk briskly back to the town centre and take a cycle rickshaw back to our hotel. We are just enjoying a cup of tea when the thunder starts in earnest, quickly followed by heavy rain. The wifi signal disappears. D has very generously donated his cold to R. 



For want of entertainment we search for an English news channel on the TV and stumble across a channel playing English Vinglish. Unlike the English language films on other channels which have English sub-titles we have to make do with the sound track but we know the film quite well and keep up. The adverts are a hoot.  They even have one for Eno's Fruit Salts.

Throughout the film there is thunder, lightning and heavy rain so we decide to stay in for dinner. We dine alone but it does mean that we are free to giggle at the errors on the menu. The Desert section was particularly entertaining.


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