D's Day Out

Leon has recommended a scenic outing by train on the line that heads north east out of Koraput. This involves catching an early train down to Rayagada on the plain, then a DMU back up again. R considers the 5.30 a.m. start briefly then opts out. The first train is an express that has been downgraded to Unreserved status but which still does not stop at all stations. It skips Kakrigumma necessitating a car ride to Laximipur Road, about 20 km away. Leon very sportingly offers to drive D there and see him on the train. A quick breakfast of toast and coffee then we hit the road. It is still dark and most of India sleeps.

We get to the station just as the booking window opens and a ticket is purchased. Because this is an express the ticket is Rs 20 dearer than if it had been an ordinary train. It is also an Edmondson card ticket rather than a computer printout. There are a few people on the platform as it gets light and soon we hear the train hooting in the distance. As it enters the station it is apparent that it will not be at the platform but two tracks across. The first adventure of the day is finding an open door and climbing aboard, achieved with a certain amount of huffing and puffing.

The coach is almost empty and D chooses a bay of seats with a Fire Escape window that can be fully opened for better photography. Letting daylight into the compartment provokes a response from one of the other occupants,  a small mouse which flees from under D's seat and across to the other side of the train. The sun is just rising as we get under way and there is the chance to take a couple of splendid sunrise shots. After a while we start to descend from the plateau, traversing bridges and tunnels as we go. A couple of stations are by-passed but at the third we stop and a few people get on.

Our descent continues through further curved and graded tunnels and we lose height quite quickly.. The scenery switches to the far side of the train and D gets in some door riding..  A chap who got on at the first stop and wants to practice his English. He wants to know why D is going to Rayagada and on hearing that the intention is to catch  another train back to Kakrigumma he becomes concerned. "That is a very dangerous place !" He is even more concerned on learning that R has been left behind amongst the god forsaken tribals. He is from Rayagada and compelled to go into the mountain area to work but he is not happy about it.

We arrive in Rayagada a few minutes late and a ticket for the slow train back up to Kakrigumma is purchased without difficulty.  What does prove difficult is shaking off the station's extensive and varied collection of beggars. One particularly pushy type who has a team of 6 children in tow is warned off by some of the locals and the others eventually take the hint. D seeks refuge on the far end of the furthest platform where there is a shady bench.

With time to kill a bit of blog writing takes place until a gentle cough makes D aware that a Sadhu is watching over his shoulder. The man seems fascinated by the tablet and is happy to pose for a photo.  When he sees the result he is thrilled and seems quite pleased to receive a small donation.

By now the return train is overdue so D heads for the enquiry desk which is unmanned. Train 58538 has disappeared from the indicator board so the next stop is the Station Supervisor's office. Here a man in an immaculate white uniform says that the train left 15 minutes ago and the next one is due at 4 p.m. D expresses surprise and says that the train number did not get announced. The Man in White indicates to follow him and he leads the way to some kind of control room where an oracle is consulted. This worthy pronounces that the train is following the next northbound freight and will be at platform 3 in a few minutes. The train does arrive a few minutes later at platform 1. Is anybody in charge here?

This service is billed as a DMU but is actually a rake of battered Unreserved coaches hauled by a WDM3A.   The train empties allowing D to bag another fire escape window seat on his chosen side and to get stuck into his packed lunch. By the time we get under way the train is one hour twenty minutes late. After a slow start we make good progress although the loco does fill the tunnels with diesel smoke in the process.  

This is an all stops service and most people joining the train seem to be carrying loads of wood. By the time we arrive at Kakrigumma we are ninety minutes late but there is still plenty of light for the walk over the fields to Chandoori Sai.

A splendid excursion. About 220 km for Rs 70.